The most important, and perhaps easiest, task to attend to is draining the fuel from the carburetor(s). If your equipment has a petcock, turn it to off, then loosen the float-bowl drain screw or bolt, and drain the fuel in the bowl into a safe container. If the drain is inaccessible or nonexistent, remove the float bowl from the carb. If you can't do that, run the engine with the fuel turned off until the engine stops.

This procedure -- which should be done any time the equipment won't be used for more than two weeks -- is the best preventive medicine for a engine that will be stored. It not only removes water and other contaminants from the carbs, it prevents the various orifices of the carbs from getting clogged or restricted with varnish as the more volatile components of the gasoline evaporate. This latter problem sends many equipment owners to their dealers every spring, and the fix is often very expensive.

If your unit is fuel-injected, draining the systems isn't possible. In that case be absolutely sure to fill the fuel tank and use a fuel stabilizer as discussed below.

During storage, unprotected fuel tanks rust, and when you start the motor in the spring, that rust finds its way into the carbs. Water in the fuel can also cause corrosion. For most owners, especially with a carbureted machine, the best course of action is to drain the tank completely to remove any water or other contaminants, then refill the tank to its full capacity adding a fuel stabilizer recommended by the  manufacturer.

If you are heading to a gas station to fill the tank. put the stabilzer in before you add gas. The turbulence of the incoming fuel and the ride home will help to mix it.

The stabilizer keeps the fuel from stratifying. If you don't use one, the heavier elements in the fuel will be the first into your machines carb(s) next spring -- which will wreak all sorts of havoc. It's still a good idea to drain the fuel again in the spring before starting the machine or even turning the petcock on. This is essential if you don't use a stabilizer.

If storing a stabilized yet full tank of fuel all winter presents a problem, turn the petcock off and pour some heavy (50-weight or thicker) oil into the empty tank (some people thin it with fuel) and slosh it around so all the interior surfaces are coated. Turn the petcock on and drain the excess oil, and then turn it off. Since your tank is off, you might as well leave it off and repeat the sloshing process every few weeks. Before you fill the tank in the spring, drain the oil that has settled again. The small amount of oil that remains after that probably won't even make your machine smoke, and it might give the top end a little lube during that first use.

Clean your machine carefully before storing it. Dirt and dust hold moisture, and insects are corrosive and will damage paint and metal. Fertilizer or road salt is also bad news. If you wash it, make sure it is thoroughly dry. A good way to dry out all the hidden nooks is a long, fast ride on a trailer.

Apply wax to every painted part you can reach, but you don't need to buff all the wax off until spring. Wax or a chrome polish will protect chrome. Coat other metal parts with WD40 or some other Corrosion Protectant. Fasteners and other small pieces can be coated with Vaseline.

Exhaust pipes will rust out if moisture gathers in them, so spraying something like WD40, LPS3 or Corrosion Protectant up in them is definitely worthwhile. If you cap them, wait until they are cold and cover them with a balloon or plastic bag held on by a rubber band.

If you decide to take the following steps to protect your engine, they are the first things you should do chronologically -- since you can't drain the carbs, for example, until you have run the engine.

Some people like to change the oil in the spring, since some water will get into the engine during storage. That's true, but the water will be boiled off the first time you take the machine for normal use. Better to drain the old oil -- and the contaminants in it -- now, before the acids and other evil compounds can work on your bike's engine. Run the machine for a nice long time in preparation, to get the oil hot, and drain it promptly upon your return. Change the filter, too. After adding the new oil, ride it around the block to be sure the fresh oil has diluted any remaining contaminants and coated everything. If you plan to change the oil you just poured in come spring, then use the cheapest oil you can find right now, perhaps a heavier grade than you normally use.

Some owners like to protect the cylinders by removing the spark plugs and pumping a very small amount (no more than a tablespoon) of that heavy oil used for the fuel tank into the cylinders, then turning the engine over (put it in gear with the plugs out and the ignition turned off and turn the rear wheel) a few times to spread the oil over the cylinder walls before replacing the plugs. This is worthwhile. An alternative system is to use fogging oil (we have found it in boat-supply stores), which is sprayed into the intake with the engine running. You simply do it until the oil fouls the spark plugs and kills the engine. If your intake is not accessible, you can spray it into the spark-plug holes. It coats the cylinders and valves. Another method for preventing interior corrosion is to use storage plugs in the spark-plug holes. These contain a desiccant to absorb moisture.

Some owners run their bikes or turn the engines over during storage. If you want to turn it over without starting, repeat the oil-in-the-plug-holes routine when you do.

If you have the valve covers off, put a shot of that 50-weight on the cam lobes or rockers.

Some owners like to seal off the intake and exhaust. Tape a plastic bag or something similar over the airbox and plug the exhaust. Note, however, that the exhaust has water drains on some machines, and the engine still has a breather. You can plug or tape these up as long as you are sure to remove the covers before starting.

Once the engine is shut off and properly protected from corrosion, resist the urge to start it, though turning it over manually to circulate oil is worthwhile.

Store tires away from sources of ozone, such as the electric motors in freezers, compressors, or washing machines.

Try to get your machine blocked up off its wheels, which will prevent the tires from developing flat spots.  If you don't get them off the floor, roll the machines or rotate the tires every few weeks.

Inflate the tires to or past their recommend maximum pressures.

Many of the so-called tire-preservative solutions actually damage tires; it's better to use nothing.

If your tires are getting thin in the tread, consider removing the wheels and having the tires replaced at your leisure, perhaps when we have our mid-winter special.

This is a good time to replace the lubricants in any moving part: cables, chain, control levers, drive shaft, linkages, locks, pivots for the stand(s), saddle hinges, steering head, swingarm, switches, wheel bearings, etc.

You'll need a variety of lubricants ranging from wheel-bearing grease to WD-40 for the various components. Work the pieces as you apply the lube to get it into the mechanism.

If you are storing your machine for more than four or five months, you should change the oil in your drive shaft or transmission.